Jump to content






Photo

Rat Questions


  • Please log in to reply
5 replies to this topic

#1 RosewoodTheMuffin

RosewoodTheMuffin

    Adult Hamster

  • Members
  • 289 posts
  • Gender:
  • Location:In Hamster Town

  • My Syrian(s):1
  • My Dwarf(s):0

  • Zodiac:
  • Country:

  • Mood:

Posted 10 October 2019 - 10:39 PM

Hi! I have a few questions about male rats. (I'm getting 2)

1: Would a double ferret nation work? Do I need to mesh-over the bars? If so how do I go about doing that?

2: I've heard putting a rock in their litter box helps. Is this a good idea and how does it help?

3: Would a large bin cage work as a carrier for on the way home?

4: I've heard that Oxbow pellets and veggies daily, with fruits, seeds, and other treats a 2-3 times a week is a good diet. Is that true?
And I've heard 15-30 grams per rat of pellets. Is this a good amount?

5: Do I need to be feeding them something else when they're younger?
If so what do you recommend?

6: What do you want new rat owners to know?

Thank you so much!

 






#2 StrawberryLove

StrawberryLove

    Rookie Hamster

  • Members
  • 67 posts
  • Gender:

  • My Syrian(s):2
  • My Dwarf(s):3

  • Zodiac:
  • Country:

  • Mood:

Posted 10 October 2019 - 11:33 PM

Hi!

As long as the spaces aren't too big for them to get out it should be fine. Yes a rock in the litter box helps here's a link about it and how to use it. https://understandingpetfancyrats.com/2016/12/13/rat-training-miracle-whats-pee-rock-use/

 

Make sure what you carry them home in is not to big, they could get stressed.

Oxbow is a very good food for rats. Make sure you don't overfeed them with the treats and veggies. 

It kind of depends on the rat how much you feed it. 10-15 grams would be good i think. If there under 6 months of age i would start them out on essential young rat food and as they get older switch them to oxbow.  

 

HEre are some rat tips :) http://www.thehouseofanimals.com/2016/11/11/10-things-you-need-to-know-before-owning-rats/



#3 MerryBB

MerryBB

    Popstar Ham

  • Members
  • 4,169 posts
  • Gender:

  • My Syrian(s):0
  • My Dwarf(s):1

  • Zodiac:
  • Country:

  • Mood:

Posted 11 October 2019 - 12:04 AM

 

 

1) The bar spacing of a Ferret Nation cage is around 1in, which may be too wide for young/small rats. You could mesh the sides, which would involve using wire cutters to trim a roll of hardware mesh and attaching sheets to the bars/door using zipties, or you could get the Critter Nation model instead which already has the recommended 0.5in bar spacing. :yes: 

 

Personally, I wouldn't attempt meshing the sides unless you are getting a really good deal on the Ferret Nation and you feel comfortable working with hardware mesh. It's kind of a nightmare to cut, and can hurt your hands if you don't wear sturdy gloves. You may also have issues with the zipties if your rats get a hold of them from inside the cage..

 

2) Yep. It functions as a spot for them to mark / wee on. I'm not sure if we know 100% why rats do this, maybe it's that "pee rocks" stand out from the rest of the litter in the litter pan, but rats are typically drawn to mark them which can help a lot in litter training. :thumbsup:

 

3) If you already have a small bin cage that is portable and properly ventilated (with strong mesh & not plastic screen or holes in the plastic), go for it. But definitely don't make a bin cage specifically for this purpose. If you're considering making a bin just to use as a travel carrier.. I would go for something like this instead.

 

4) Diet is always super complicated. :laughing:

 

So rats are omnivores that really benefit from variety. But there aren't really any safe/suitable commercial seed mixes readily available in the US, unless you decide to trust an individual or rescue's homemade mix, so it's often recommended to make up the majority of your rats' diet with a high quality pellet food such as Oxbow Essentials Regal Rats.

 

You can absolutely supplement with a mix of safe/healthy seeds, grains (including pasta), dried veggies and fruits, dried legumes, etc.. And regular servings of safe/healthy fresh foods are also recommended. You'll need to do a lot of research yourself and end up deciding for yourself how to go about this- there isn't necessarily one right or wrong answer you can get.

 

As for portions, there isn't a one-size-fits-all answer to that question.. What I would do is make sure I'm using a high quality feed, limit the treats I provide to a reasonable amount, regularly weigh the rats to keep an eye on weight gain/loss, and pay attention to how much food is leftover around the cage when it's being cleaned.

 

Generally speaking, so long as you're keeping an eye on the rats' behavior and weight/mobility, you should be fine just eyeballing your daily portions. When it's just two rats and you're around to supervise them; it's better to overfeed by a bit and learn to correct your mistake, instead of agonizing over finding a specific number and ending up underfeeding.

 

5) Some folks just supplement their adult rat food with protein rich foods, and some specifically buy Oxbow Essentials' Young Rat formula or Halarn Teklad's 18% protein formula. It looks like the flavor of Oxbow Essentials' formula has improved so that more folks' rats will eat it.. So that might be worth a try. It's what I would do, anyway.

 

6) Definitely join a pet rat forum, such as this one. That way you'll have a larger base of folks to ask for support; advice; etc. You're not going to be able to get everything perfect on the first try, that's 100% to be expected and OK, so it's good to have a larger base of experienced folks to answer your questions and refer you to more info that can help. :goodvibes:

 

Also, budget! You don't want to be caught off guard by an unexpected expense. Make sure you have more than enough funds for vet care, supplies, etc. And make sure- especially if you're a dependent or don't have many transport options- that you aren't going to be trapped into not being able to access your chosen vet or refill food/bedding/other supplies. :money:

 

And definitely prepare yourself for a bumpy, stressful road when you first get your rats. You'll probably immediately love them because rats are amazing, but they're also quite likely to be skittish and shy at first; you may even get nipped or squeaked at; and there are most likely going to be some individual quirks/traits of theirs that you're not going to be thrilled about.

 

Don't expect everything to go perfectly, don't put other peoples' rats / rat experiences on a pedestal, and just make sure you're prepared to deal with the issues that may come up (whether that means dealing with something you already had in mind or asking questions about something you hadn't expected). :mouse:



#4 RosewoodTheMuffin

RosewoodTheMuffin

    Adult Hamster

  • Members
  • 289 posts
  • Gender:
  • Location:In Hamster Town

  • My Syrian(s):1
  • My Dwarf(s):0

  • Zodiac:
  • Country:

  • Mood:

Posted 11 October 2019 - 10:08 PM

1) The bar spacing of a Ferret Nation cage is around 1in, which may be too wide for young/small rats. You could mesh the sides, which would involve using wire cutters to trim a roll of hardware mesh and attaching sheets to the bars/door using zipties, or you could get the Critter Nation model instead which already has the recommended 0.5in bar spacing. :yes:

 

Personally, I wouldn't attempt meshing the sides unless you are getting a really good deal on the Ferret Nation and you feel comfortable working with hardware mesh. It's kind of a nightmare to cut, and can hurt your hands if you don't wear sturdy gloves. You may also have issues with the zipties if your rats get a hold of them from inside the cage..

 

2) Yep. It functions as a spot for them to mark / wee on. I'm not sure if we know 100% why rats do this, maybe it's that "pee rocks" stand out from the rest of the litter in the litter pan, but rats are typically drawn to mark them which can help a lot in litter training. :thumbsup:

 

3) If you already have a small bin cage that is portable and properly ventilated (with strong mesh & not plastic screen or holes in the plastic), go for it. But definitely don't make a bin cage specifically for this purpose. If you're considering making a bin just to use as a travel carrier.. I would go for something like this instead.

 

4) Diet is always super complicated. :laughing:

 

So rats are omnivores that really benefit from variety. But there aren't really any safe/suitable commercial seed mixes readily available in the US, unless you decide to trust an individual or rescue's homemade mix, so it's often recommended to make up the majority of your rats' diet with a high quality pellet food such as Oxbow Essentials Regal Rats.

 

You can absolutely supplement with a mix of safe/healthy seeds, grains (including pasta), dried veggies and fruits, dried legumes, etc.. And regular servings of safe/healthy fresh foods are also recommended. You'll need to do a lot of research yourself and end up deciding for yourself how to go about this- there isn't necessarily one right or wrong answer you can get.

 

As for portions, there isn't a one-size-fits-all answer to that question.. What I would do is make sure I'm using a high quality feed, limit the treats I provide to a reasonable amount, regularly weigh the rats to keep an eye on weight gain/loss, and pay attention to how much food is leftover around the cage when it's being cleaned.

 

Generally speaking, so long as you're keeping an eye on the rats' behavior and weight/mobility, you should be fine just eyeballing your daily portions. When it's just two rats and you're around to supervise them; it's better to overfeed by a bit and learn to correct your mistake, instead of agonizing over finding a specific number and ending up underfeeding.

 

5) Some folks just supplement their adult rat food with protein rich foods, and some specifically buy Oxbow Essentials' Young Rat formula or Halarn Teklad's 18% protein formula. It looks like the flavor of Oxbow Essentials' formula has improved so that more folks' rats will eat it.. So that might be worth a try. It's what I would do, anyway.

 

6) Definitely join a pet rat forum, such as this one. That way you'll have a larger base of folks to ask for support; advice; etc. You're not going to be able to get everything perfect on the first try, that's 100% to be expected and OK, so it's good to have a larger base of experienced folks to answer your questions and refer you to more info that can help. :goodvibes:

 

Also, budget! You don't want to be caught off guard by an unexpected expense. Make sure you have more than enough funds for vet care, supplies, etc. And make sure- especially if you're a dependent or don't have many transport options- that you aren't going to be trapped into not being able to access your chosen vet or refill food/bedding/other supplies. :money:

 

And definitely prepare yourself for a bumpy, stressful road when you first get your rats. You'll probably immediately love them because rats are amazing, but they're also quite likely to be skittish and shy at first; you may even get nipped or squeaked at; and there are most likely going to be some individual quirks/traits of theirs that you're not going to be thrilled about.

 

Don't expect everything to go perfectly, don't put other peoples' rats / rat experiences on a pedestal, and just make sure you're prepared to deal with the issues that may come up (whether that means dealing with something you already had in mind or asking questions about something you hadn't expected). :mouse:

Hello! I actually reposted this from a rat forum, but I'll look into that one, too!

 

Thank you so much!!

 

I have a few more questions.

 

1: Hello! I was wondering if 7/8 of an inch or even 1 inch would be too wide for male rats? I don't know if they'll be fully grown when I get them.
At what age are rats fully grown?
I've heard 1'' is too wide and I've heard 1/2 isn't.

I've also heard that 1'' is the max.
I'm planning on getting either a feisty ferret cage or if I'm able to a double ferret nation (second hand) for 2 male rats.

 

2: Can rats eat millet, chia, oat sprays, wheat sprays, flax seed, and pet shop crickets? Can they eat whimzee chews?

 

3: I've heard that once a rat is weaned they can eat Oxbow without supplements, but I'd like to provide some extra protein. I have Mazuri here, would that work?

And what would the ratio be for one bag of Mazuri and one of Oxbow?

 

4: At what age are rats fully grown?

 

5: What should I do if the rats fight?

 

6: If I don't have a quarantine cage for a new rat, what should I do?

 

7: How do you go about taming/bonding with them?

 

Sorry for all the questions!!

 

Thank you so much!!


Edited by RosewoodTheMuffin, 11 October 2019 - 10:19 PM.


#5 Mausoleum

Mausoleum

    Baby Hamster

  • Member
  • 49 posts
  • Gender:

  • My Syrian(s):0
  • My Dwarf(s):0

  • Zodiac:
  • Country:

  • Mood:

Posted 12 October 2019 - 12:52 AM

What you should know about rats is how tumour prone they are. Get your babies fixed, teste tumours are common. Give them weekly check ups, have a hospital cage(you could just seperate the levels in your cage), and make a savings for them.
You should also know to keep different species seperated. I've heard a story of rats defending themselves from a cat and killing it. My own rats attacked a pitbull puppy that stuck their nose through the bars of the cage. (Don't worry they were ok and the pup wasn't allowed to get near the cage again.) If you have a dog or cat, you should definitely keep them away from each other.

#6 LaughyTaffy42

LaughyTaffy42

    Junior Hamster

  • Members
  • 248 posts
  • Gender:
  • Location:mm..... Somewhere

  • My Syrian(s):0
  • My Dwarf(s):1

  • Zodiac:
  • Country:

  • Mood:

Posted 14 October 2019 - 06:28 AM

Hi! I have a few questions about male rats. (I'm getting 2)

1: Would a double ferret nation work? Do I need to mesh-over the bars? If so how do I go about doing that?

2: I've heard putting a rock in their litter box helps. Is this a good idea and how does it help?

3: Would a large bin cage work as a carrier for on the way home?

4: I've heard that Oxbow pellets and veggies daily, with fruits, seeds, and other treats a 2-3 times a week is a good diet. Is that true?
And I've heard 15-30 grams per rat of pellets. Is this a good amount?

5: Do I need to be feeding them something else when they're younger?
If so what do you recommend?

6: What do you want new rat owners to know?

Thank you so much!

YESSSS. Another member of the rat cult

1. Yes, if the male rats are older you won't need to mesh it- but if they're babies you'll have to (but I don't know how)

2.YES! Pee rocks are great! Rats like to pee on hard flat surfaces. 

3. I suppose, however you can buy carriers for fairly cheap on amazon. Generally, you don't want a huge carrier and the rats will already be scared, so yah

4. I feed my boys Regal Rat (Oxbow) and veggies daily. Seeds are really necessary and fruit is less necessity, more treat like. Give your rats as many pellets/blocks as they want. Rats can self regulate.

5. Sorry, not sure

6. The poop- it smells BAD, AWFUL and also your rats won't like you right away, they'll probably never really love being picked up, and they aren't always cuddly.

 

 

TO your other questions:

1) Male rats are fully grown at about 6-8 months. 

2) In general, rats aren't really seed-eating creatures. Pretty much any food is okay for the to eat, I don't believe anything you've listed is wrong. Anyways, seeds aren't very important- veggies are!

3) Mazuri would work I guess, not sure on ratios

4) As I said, 6-8 months

5) Male rats have a high chance of fighting at around 6-8 months, so neutering is a really good idea. Also, neutering is really nice because they don't pee everywhere or smell bad, my rats also seem less shy and a bit happier since neutering.

6) Get a quarantine cage.

7) Oof I am not a good source for that. Best advice- time. Liquid treats like applesauce on your hand, let them come to you, talk to them etc.

 

Hope I helped (at least) a bit